Jumat, 15 April 2011

Must Haves for Spring

By TINA GAUDOIN

Having written that title, I am going to contradict myself. There's nothing really "must have" about fashion or style. Where clothes are concerned, "must haves" really are for children in third-world countries or for the Libyan refugees streaming across the Egyptian and Tunisian borders, without any of their worldly belongings.  

 

I haven't come over all worthy—well, all right, I have, but I'm just making the point that in my business, the idea of "need" is a marketing-created imperative, rather than an economic, social or personal necessity.
All of that being said, I'm about to tell you to spend a lot of money on a few items—and I'm assuming that if you have the means to do this, you will almost certainly have donated to one of the aforementioned causes already.

Why the money? Well, sometimes—just occasionally, if you have the means, I believe in buying "the best of" for a particular season. These are pieces that you will have forever, that came down the runway and were destined for the fashion archives (and the pages of magazines).
What I'm saying is, if you can, spend on the original; don't waste money on High Street looky-likeys, because the pieces I'm about to recommend will never be bettered and you will always look and feel good in them.

Stella's fruitopia
I love Stella McCartney for her humor and for the way she cuts her clothes. She's short on irony and big on celebration, both of life and of a woman's body—this is a very good thing for a women's designer, and it's rare. I'm not saying that you should go all out and wear her Citrus print from top to toe, but I am recommending her silk maxi dress with the oversized print on the bodice and a fine, almost Liberty-like print on the pleated skirt (£1,665). Flattering, feminine and on trend.
White
Dolce & Gabbana
Dolce & Gabbana created the prettiest white dresses this season, in embroidered silk-chiffon.
There are a number of ways to go with white this season, but beware parties and social occasions (everyone is going to go in this direction, so unless you want to join the mass ranks of women who appear to be nursing orderlies, then steer clear). One perfect white piece is the answer. Chanel inevitably has the crème de la crème of boucle jackets, with feather trim (from £21,926). Dolce & Gabbana created the prettiest white dresses this season, in embroidered silk-chiffon (£2,045). They sell the satin bra (£255) and briefs (£200) to go with it, explaining at the shows that their collection was "for a bride's trousseau." Well, Kate Middleton did ensnare the future king of England by flashing her knickers and bra from the runway. Meanwhile, the most sensible and classic white piece this spring is the YSL trench in cotton gabardine (£1,880).
Prada's bonkers graphics
Prada
Prada's bonkers graphics
Here's another Miuccia Prada classic—her crazy cherub meets fruit and stripes graphics. Buy the cotton skirt (£540) in the muted grays, browns and blacks, and wear it with a simple top in black, white or navy. It's going to look incredible during the autumn, too, with a cashmere rollneck, boots and woolly tights. 
Christopher Kane's acid trip
net-a-porter.com.
Christopher Kane's laser-cut skirt (£1,610)

Kane's laser-cut acid leather caused a storm when he sent it down the runway last September, calling the look Princess Margaret on acid. These are collector's pieces because they broke the mold by standing British-style conservatism on its head and making it sexy (something designers have been trying to do for years). Buy the laser-cut skirt (£1,610) and top (£1,200) in neon yellow. Or pair the skirt with Kane's henna argyle cardigan (£820).

D&G's floral maxi
D&G
Dolce & Gabbana's floral maxi dresses
No apologies for two Dolce & Gabbana mentions, because this season, the designers got it entirely right. D&G trends "younger" than the Dolce line, but their sexy, simple, floral maxi dresses (£1,565) would look great at almost any age (as a rule of thumb, past 50, wear with flats or barefoot). Cinch with a leather belt from Lanvin in tan (£410).
Jil Sander's stripes
Jil Sander
Jil Sander's stripes
Yes, I know. Stripes again. But these are the seminal stripes and shapes of the season. Voluminous bubble skirts worn with simple tees and shells; bold, almost garish colors; and huge florals. Buy the stripes. The horizontal, baby pink or blue and white long skirt (£1,370), and the ribbon stripe top in black or cerise (£720) are stunning.
The wedge
net-a-porter.com
The extreme version of the wedge
The extreme version of the wedge, which tapers to nothing at the ball of the foot—incredibly sexy, somewhat precarious and possibly uncomfortable for more than a few hours (limo service required). These elongate the front of the foot and the leg, and will come in very handy with the new maxi. The best are from Lanvin in snakeskin (£640) or Christian Louboutin in canvas and raffia (£345).
The brogue
Prada
The brogue


The alternative to the wedge and best worn with the new cropped pants or the balloon skirt. The ultimate are from Prada, with their über Teddy-Boy burlap, striped soles (£510). For the less adventurous, Pierre Hardy's white leather brogues (£288).

Printed in The Wall Street Journal, page W4

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